Kedarkantha: A quintessential Himalayan Trek

The breath taking view of Himalayas

In the depth of winter, I finally learned that within me there lay an invincible summer. – Albert Camus

Himalayas, the snow clad mountains dancing on the tunes of the breeze making rustling of leaves, will call you back. You can’t, never ever wave off a goodbye to the Himalayan ranges. It’s an addiction!

My journey for Kerdarkantha Trek, a windy trail through snow peaked mountain located at 12,500 ft in Uttarkashi district of Uttarakhand, started with over-night journey to Dehradun. I registered for the trek with Indiahikes and met the group members at Dehradun Railway station. From the railway station, we were transferred to the base camp located in the quaint valley of Himalayas at Sankri village. And the journey had started.

Day 1: Dehradun to Sankri

From Urban populace to green meadows

Sangri Village

I was lost into the wilderness of the Himalayas. Far from the hustle and bustle of the city, the roads leading to the Sankri village was an eye candy. We finished our breakfast near Kempty fall and started our journey to the base camp. While heading towards Sankri, I was introduced to a sleepy hamlet, amazingly scenic beautiful village, surrounded by greenish and yellowish paddy fields, Mori. It is located on the banks of renowned Tons River. Mori is a part of the Tons valley, have a unique culture and history. Local folks boast that they are the descendants of the Kauravas and Pandavas, the mythological royal warriors and kings in the epic age of Mahabharatha. The village tucked away in the breath-taking ranges of Himalayas was the attraction of the journey. We crossed major commercial markets of Uttarkashi including Purola and Netwaar and reached Sangri by 3 pm. Karthik, an IIT-dropout and a reckless mountaineer, who was as young as 22-year-old was our trek leader. We noted important tips including green trails, adjusting back packs and do/don’t in Himalayas. When was last you looked at the sky full of stars and got lost into connecting the dots? A star gazing session organised by Jude still remains one of my favourite take-way from the trek. From forming constellations to scientific tales, the man who has studied stars for years unveiled many secrets hiding behind the glittering stars. It was a dreamy night and we headed to bed for a new day, a new start.      

Chilling near Ton River

A wooden bridge en-route to JKT camp

Day: Sankri (6450ft) to Juda Ka Talab (9150ft)

A walk to remember

Juda Ka Talab Camp

Rhododendron Flower

Smitten by the view of the Himalayas from the terrace of the guest house, I started my day with a balmy sunrise healing my soul. The sun seems to hibernate behind the mountains after sun set and sets your mood to travel to Himalayas with its soothing rays. We completed our breakfast, which was surprisingly delicious. Indiahikes is perfect for a foodie trekker. The hot meals with authentic Himalayan taste will tickle your taste-buds. As soon as we completed our breakfast, our trekking kick started with basic tips for trekking, using trekking poles, breathing during trekking and stretching. The uneven steep mountains covered with dense Deodar trees and Rhododendron flowers welcomed us providing a shield from the unrelenting sun rays. We started our trekking with Jai Ram (guide) and Vimlesh Rangar (co-guide), who introduced us, to the dense forest and the eco system of the Himalayan ranges. The red Rhododendron flowers gave the forest a whimsical look. With steady steps and confidence we headed towards our next camp at Juda Ka Talab. We took our first long break at a Dhaba located in the middle of the green meadows covered with pine trees. A small water source snaking through the meadows took my breath away. Nature gives a sigh of relief during the tiring treks. Huffing and puffing, we reached our first camp of the trek surrounded by dense forest snow and lake. The tents pitched on the edge of the riff overlooking lakes were a sight to die for. We were welcomed with hot meals and warm hospitality of Naina Bhai, the head cook of the camp. Karthik, our trek leader, introduced us to the tents and taught us to roll the sleeping bags. We played virtual volleyball all the day. It was fun and helped us to remembering the names of the co-trekkers. We sat near the calm lake and sipped tea looking at the sky changing its colour from white to ochre. Soon after sunset, our dinner was served. We headed to our tents for a peaceful sleep.

PS: I was introduced to the craziest fun-game ‘Mafia’. Thanks to Pune Gang!

Playing Mafia at JKT

Day3:  Juda ka Talab (9150ft) to KK base camp (11250ft)

Acclimatising with Nature

Sunset at KK base camp

KK Base Camp

The day started with learning the dance steps for summit. Karthik and Rashika were marking the steps and I readily joined the bandwagon. Early morning, I was feeling little uncomfortable as my stomach was bloated. Karthik after listening to the symptoms said I was going through high altitude digestive disorder. After guzzling water and medicine, I was fit within half-an-hour. We started our trekking after waving off to the kitchen staffs and health check. Second day of the trek was relatively relaxed from earlier day. After taking short breaks and trekking for two hours we reached The Kedarkantha Base Camp. The tents put up vertically with snow peaked mountains at the backdrop was refreshing. The guide showed us the summit and I was relived, we were close. Close enough to witness the magic Himalayas create. After a relaxing lunch, I surrendered myself to the arresting beauty of Himalayas. Karthik introduced us to gaiters and micro-spikes. Sitting outside the camp, I witnessed the most tranquil sunset. From white to yellow to ochre to blue- the mountains got tuned with the intensity of the sun. It seems both mountains and sun were singing a lullaby. Dancing on the tunes of the mountain, we spent hours watching sun and moon exchanging their duties. The night glittered and we called it a day as we had to start for the summit at 3am. Night was fading and memories were created. I cuddle myself to the memories which will remain with me forever. The cold memories provided warmth to my soul.

Day 4:  KK base camp (11250ft) – KK Summit (12500ft) – KK base camp (11250ft) – Hargaon (8900ft)

Surrender to the mountains

At the summit

View from Kedarkantha Summit

It was cold, my hands were numb. Last day was little uncomfortable. The digestive disorder made me little dizzy. But the determination to witness the story weaved by the Himalayas, made me feel confident. Soon after heath check (heart and pulse rate) we headed to the summit. Layers with down jacket and headlamps, we were all ready to climb the summit. The reflection of t he head lamps reflect our determination to keep climbing. It was dark and we kept moving till we reached the Dhaba. It was located at the most exotic places I have ever seen. Surrounded with snow and mountains, the Dhaba was our last resort in cold. We sipped tea and saw sun all set to rise. The sky changed it colour from blue to pink. After clicking the sun rise and the snow clad mountains, we headed towards our summit. The snow restricted our move leading to slow pace. I was exhausted as last day was not comfortable with respect to my health. First half of the trek was difficult and I was struggling to gain pace. Vimlesh, the co-guide asked me to rest for awhile and start again. After a while, I was all set to leave. The panoramic 360 degree view of the Himalayas was engaging. The appealing snow-laden peaks encouraged me to keep trekking. After trekking for four hours, walking on the snow, balancing on the ridge, pushing our limits- we reached the summit.  We applauded for each other- showing the courage and confidence, helping each other through mountains and becoming one of the fastest batches to complete the summit. After performing our summit dance, we spent few minutes gazing at the arresting beauty. We celebrated our summit with a group photograph and started descending to the KK base camp. By now, the snow has started melting leading to difficulty in walking. Since it was difficult descending, the batch decided to slide on the snow. It was fun- balancing and snaking through the snow is not everyone’s cup of tea. At least not mine. We reached the KK Base camp and had hot lunch. The next batch had arrived and was ready with their curious questions. We waved off each other wishing luck for the rest journey. We descended to Hargaon. The never ending green meadows covered with pine trees and mountain was perfect place to chill after a long day. We slept on the green grass for a while recalling all the memories we handpicked. We had our snacks and tea relaxing, chit-chatting and bonding with each other on the last day at high altitude.

Good Morning from the trek

Dhaba enroute to KK summit

PS: We celebrated our summit pigging out at cake and biryani. Thanks to Karthik.    

Day5 – Hargaon (8900ft) – Sankri (6400ft)

The last steps together

Camp site at Har Gaon

It was neither a batch nor a team, it was a family. We took care of each other, helped and made it sure that each one of us completes the summit. It is a rock-solid bond now. We will cherish the bond now and forever. Descending to Sangri was a bag full of mixed feeling. Happy, sad and pain. Happy we completed the summit, sad we were descending and pain of waving off bye to the family. After trekking for 4 hours we reached the base camp Sangri. We were welcomed with hot lunch followed by debriefing. I decided to visit the nearest village Saudh. All equipped with my camera, I roamed in the village for a while decoding their culture, demographics and people. While ascending to Sangri, we played cricket with the kids. I was satisfied. I can’t ask for more, just promised to come back soon.

   

Day6 – Sankri- Dehradun- Delhi

Back to the hustle and bustle

My signature pose

Never say goodbye because goodbye means going away and going away means forgetting. So I said: “We will meet again” and meant it.

You're only given a little spark of madness. You mustn't lose it.

 

Batch- March 28, 2017

Things to carry:

• ·         Prescribed medicines
• ·         Trekking pole
• ·         Lunch Box
• ·         Warm Clothes
• ·         Sunscreen
• ·         Skull Cap
• ·         Water Bottle

Things to do:

• ·         Eat light before staring the journey to avoid digestive disorder.
• ·         Drink 4-5 litres of water to keep hydrated. It reduces the chances of Acute Mountain Sickness.
• ·         Keep your head, legs and hands warm.
• ·         Never sleep during day time once you reach camps.
• ·         Take proper rest. Avoid exhausting yourself after trekking.
• 
  

Irresistible Sikkim: The travel tale

Have you ever lost yourself to the clouds? I got lost amidst the irresistible beauty of Sikkim. Being lost is happy sometimes. I was lost among the surreal world of clouds, lush subtropical woodlands and rhododendron groves and locals. I was not in Sikkim for monasteries, momos and monuments. I was looking forward for some crazy clouds dancing on my head, beautiful valley which will keep visiting my dreams reminding me of the beautiful country we live in.

Sikkim is the window onto the Himalayas. The little colourful window  from where you get a panoramic view of the Mt. Khangchendzonga, Mt. Kabru, Mt. Siniolchu, Mt. Thingchinkhang, Mt. Jopuno , Mt. Pandim and Mt. Rathong. The snow laden mountain, weaving stories for me, seems alive. As soon as I landed the Bagdogra Airport, the cold wind pricked on my nose and gently waved me ‘Hi’.

Sikkim, the state worth falling for, is destitute of lustrous roads. Bagdogra, located on the border of West Bengal and Sikkim, is 123 kms away from Gangtok. Considering the potholes and the unadopted roads of the state, it would have took more than 5 hours to reach Gangtok. The bird’s eye view of the river Teesta carved out of verdant Himalayas is the only relief during the journey. Since I was running out of time, I decided on helicopter service provided by the Sikkim Tourism Development Corporation (STDC) which is a division of Sikkim state government, which reduces the travel time from five hours to 30 minutes. The panoramic view of Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Gangtok will make your ride worthy.

Bhaichung Bhutia, the striker of Indian Football Team, came as a complete surprise. He officially introduced me to his state. From river Teesta to local cuisines, the thirty minutes session was more about Sikkim less about football. The footballer was delighted and proud while introducing me to the state heritage and environment. A star without stardom looks even more sexy!

The taxi swathed among the tangled roads leading to Hotel Hungy Jack. The hotel located at the prime location, most importantly opposite to the taxi stand, seems to be one of the oldest hotels of Gangtok. The rooms with wooden look and modern facilities are eligible for the backpackers. The hotel is located at NH31A is always lively and brimming with tourists.

If you have to see how beautiful Sikkim is, wake up early and sit on the incomplete construction of private taxi stand. The ochre clear sky, clouds floating and dancing around the colourful canopied huts and sun getting high. What you get high on is the heavenly view of the lush green Himalayas.

Sikkim shares international borders with Tibet Autonomous Region of China on its northeast and hence become more vulnerable to trespass. While you are travelling to Sikkim, do not forget to carry your identification card (passport, voter ID card or Aadhar Card).  My travel for North Sikkim started early at 9 am. Kushal Chettari, our cab owner, got all the Protected Area Permits (PAP) for Yumthang Valley from the Sikkim Tourism Office located at NH31A.

The journey to Lachung, at an elevation of about 9,600 feet (2,900 m) at the confluence of the Lachen and Lachung Rivers, both tributaries of the River Teesta, the nearest village to Yumthang valley, is worth travelling. The seven sisters’ falls and the Bachchan fall are amazing tea-stop. The road heading to Lachung from Gangtok is in bad shape leading to an exhausting journey. We reached Lachung at 6 pm. The cute little wooden house was our home for chilly night. Temperature dipping as low as 2 degree gave us some major craving for tea. The home stay with basic facilities and warm hospitality (as warm as the blankets they provide) overlooking the valley and river Teesta is perfect for nature lover.

Early morning, after some photo session at River Teesta, we headed to Yumthang Valley. I had never seen valley so lively and colourful. As if they were narrating their story of love, pain and agony. The valley has all the possible colours. The yellow leaves mixed with a splash of red and green, the red flowers amalgamated with orange and blue- the valley is riot of colours. The hide and seek of sun rays and clouds made the valley look more gorgeous. Yes, gorgeous is the word!

We enjoyed finger licking breakfast at Yumthang Market. The shops sell local products, woollen clothes, travel essential and souvenir. After a breakfast break, we headed to Zero Point. River Teesta was our travel partner and travel along with us till zero point. The river was frozen, calm and cold. The cold wind sent chill down the spine. Enjoy the 360 view of snow with partially frozen river.

  

  

Sikkim is a hidden gem and perfect for a travel junkies who believes to travel the roads less traveled. 
Pack your backpack, and enjoy the serenity of the Himalayas. Getting little lost in the serenity and tranquility never hurts! 

Points to note:

Inner Line Permit: For foreigners. This can be obtained from all Indian Missions, Sikkim Tourism Offices at New Delhi, Kolkata, District Magistrates Office of Darjeeling, Siliguri, and Rangpo on the strength of an Indian Visa. The 30 days duration Permit is issued on the spot without any delay provided photocopies of the passport and visa along with two passport size photos of the applicants are made available. The permissible duration of the stay for foreign tourists is 30 days initially.

Protected Area Permit: For those interested in going for trekking in the interior region of the state, which is available for certain specified area for groups consisting of two or more foreigners subject to condition that the trekking programme is arranged through a registered travel agency.

Protected Area Permit (PAP) for various places in Sikkim

• Tsongo –Baba Mandir
• Nathula Pass
• Dzongri Trek
• Singalila Trek
• Yumthang
• Yumesamdong (zero point)
• Thangu-Chopta Valley
• Gurudongmar

Motorist guide:

• Passport size photographs of applicant and co-rider
• Identity proof of documents of applicant and co-rider
• Driving license
• Pollution Control documents of motorbike
• Insurance documents of motorbike
• An affidavit authorization from the owner for hired bike
• Application form with supporting document should be submitted one day in advance to Home Department for permit. 

  

A Passion to Preserve

My obsession with old constructed buildings introduced me to Dhawalpura Kothi - the grand mansion, now a legacy of Chanda Krishna Rohatgi and Meenakshi Rohatgi. A charming Kothi tucked away in the old lanes of Patna City. 

Welcomed by a huge old wooden doors- the sharp and deep wooden texture and the rusted iron buckles revealed its age. It was ancient. Passing by the bagicha- the land full of mango and litchi tress, climbers and creepers hanging to them as it was not being maintained for years, stands tall the white washed building. The grand Dhawalpura Kothi.

I love old buildings; they often have special architectural details that you just don’t find in newer construction – high ceilings, thick walls, claw footed tubs, odd little wooden closets, built in furniture, old colorful textured glasses and iron detailed designs.

An octogenarian clad in white kurta-pajama, wrinkled face with sharp features, tall and well groomed hair- Chand Krishna Rohtagi , would not have looked less charming than a Bollywood star in his younger days, welcomed us with a cold smile. The lady in crisped pink cotton sari with those 80s floral print and a huge distinctive red bindi, standing by his side was his pillar of life.

The Dhawalpura khoti is an abode of love birds- the khothi has witnessed the love story of Mr. and Mrs. Rohatgi. They both fell in love and got married. Any home can be castle when the king and queen are in love.

The old standing tall Dhawalpura kothi was constructed in 1990 after it got damaged in massive earthquake in 1898. A wonderfully impressive cast iron fanlight or surmount comprising floral scroll work over windows/doors and a grand central circular feature set within a classic arch profile add colour to the Kothi- it took 12 years to complete the baronial building on the same foundation. Royalty it speaks! 

The building retains in the same construction and design without letting the modernity and luxury touch its ancestral charm. It was repaired, retouched but was not reconstructed. Mr. Rohatgi, despite of being unwell, passionately took me to a small yet detailed tour of Kothi.  

The façade with white cast iron and wood benches, over the years, have witnessed harsh dry air of summers, the first rain of monsoon and the bone biting cold of Patna. The place is perfect for an evening tea complimented with a good book. 

Mr. Rohatgi, an IIT graduate and owner of Pradeep lamps, has ran his business successfully from this beautiful Kothi. The Gaddi- the place from where the businessman ran their business, has an intricate carved teakwood and black iron pillars, record rooms on the either side and pictures of forefather for blessings. The gaddi construction gives you a fare idea of how business was a serious affair.   

The corridor overlooking the breath taking construction, which is a perfect blend of design and architect; is the most exquisite part of Kothi. A perfect place to witness the ochre sky, chirping birds, enjoy your morning tea and bid the day goodbye. The antique cast iron railing with sinuous pattern and wooden blinds makes this place lively.

The terrace- the newly constructed area of the Kothi is sweet hideout of the couple. For Mr. & Mrs Rohatgi colour of love is white- simple and pure.  The kitchen area modified into study room and workstation is now a white washed hut-shaped airy space. 

The terrace garden with Classic Coalbrookdale bench painted black - rising majestically from a beautiful lush green terrace. A quite place to read, listen to the sounds of a summer garden or lose yourself in views of the stars. Picture Perfect it is!

The library with over thousands book staked on the shelves according to the interest includes history, travel, philosophy medicine, biographies, law and fiction.

A house is a just a concrete without the home décor. The spotless white curtains with over 300 years old glasses, lamps and chandelier completes the Kothi. The décor from across the globe compliments heavenly beauty of the Kothi. 

A century old well